I have been blogging for the last five years on and off. I am a photographer and avid gardener. I am passionate about life, my family, my dogs and my friends.
We get a lot of questions from clients about growing garlic – so we are going to discuss that today. The number one question we are asked about growing garlic is when can I harvest my garlic?
Garlic is great to grow – easy, low maintenance Garlic is planted in the fall – beginning it’s growth in late fall and goes dormant in the winter to spring to life and continue its growth cycle in the early spring as the ground thaws. Garlic continues to grow throughout the summer, sprouting leaves and a long flower bud that shoots up from the center of the bulb. This is the scape which is at the end produces a seed bulb and can usually be seen developing on the garlic plants around the end of June or early July depending on the zone you are in (even as early as May in some warmer zones!) Up here on the mountain in zone 5b we saw our scapes develop the first week of July. By cutting the scape from the plant, you signal to the plant that the energy gets sent down to the bulb, so it grows larger and more full.
Garlic scapes in the garden
Scapes are wonderful to use while cooking, as they give off a milder garlic flavor than the bulb. Scapes are healthy filled with essential nutrients and minerals; they are low in calories, high in fiber, vitamin C and provitamin A.
Scapes can be used in soups and salads; are good roasted or fried; and they make a wonderful pesto. Check out of our Recipes page of our blog for more info on roasting scapes and making pesto with them.
Another question we are asked quite often is when is it time to harvest my garlic?
Garlic is easy to grow and relatively low maintenance compared to other vegetables and harvest time is no different. Shortly after you have harvested your scapes – about a month later – the leaves of the garlic plants will turn brown and yellow. The you begin to notice the change stop watering, this is about 2- 3 weeks before harvest. On the calendar, in zones 5-6, this is around mid July through August, warmer zones this will be earlier in the summer. When 75% of the plant has changed to yellow and brown, it’s time to harvest your garlic. If you wait until the entire plant has turned you run the risk of the outer skin of the bulbs will shed too.
Every Thursday live on Instagram @homegrown_harvest answers questions from followers about gardening and sustainable living. If you have any questions you would like answered, we would love to help out. Send your questions to info@homegrownharvest.com.
I found a slug on my lettuce that’s no my Tower Garden, what can I do?
We recommend using copper foil tape – copper gives them a very mild shock since their slime reacts with the copper. If you see slugs or snails – hand pick them off and put into a container of soapy water.
If you’re using a Tower Garden put the copper foil tape around the base of the unit, so they won’t be able to crawl up the sides.
If you’re using a container –
you can place the copper-foiled tape around the container.
You can also find copper sheets which can easily be cut with tin snips to create bands that you can use to place around the base of the individual plants or raised beds.
Some people recommend Diatomaceous Earth; however, I recently read recently that DE can harm bees – because the power gets on them and they take it back to the hive where it does some damage.
It’s mid-June what should I
be doing in the garden?
At this time of year there are plenty of things that need and can be done in the garden. Tall plants should staked by now, so be sure that supports have been put in for your tomatoes, bean, cucumbers and other vertical growing veggies that ultimately will need to support to thrive.
Succession planting is something else to think about this time of year. Seeding fast growing veggies – crops like carrots, bush beans, radishes, etc… will help crowd out potential weeds from taking root and give you more produce to enjoy.
Once you are done with transplanting and seeding, we recommend putting down some mulch, like weed-free straw or shredded leaf mulch. Mulching will allow you to decrease watering, prevent weed growth and helps reduce soil-borne diseases from building up.
Mid June is a good time to throw some light-weight netting over your strawberry patches & blueberry bushes to protect them from hungry birds.
Every Thursday live on Instagram @homegrown_harvest answers questions from followers about gardening and sustainable living. If you have any questions you would like answered, we would love to help out. Send your questions to info@homegrownharvest.com.
I am worried about my newly planted seeds washing away in these torrential rains. What can I do?
Put a light
layer of pine straw as a mulch to help hold things in place and diffuse the
heavy water.
My compost this spring didn’t seem ready. I have a black plastic box. I was ill this winter and didn’t turn the lawn mowed leaves from last fall. I put in some organic compost starter to get it moving. Does my compost need to be as broken down as what comes in the bags to spread in the garden?
The short answer is yes it should look like what comes out of the bag if you were to buy it. Compost is ready when it looks dark brown in color, feels like rich crumbly earth, and smells like rich earth. It should not smell like rotting vegetables – nor should you be able to recognize any kitchen scraps or garden refuse.
It’s important
that your compost is ready since it does contain substances which can be
damaging to plants such as acids and pathogens which need to go through the
complete process of decomposition to be safe to use. Plus, nitrogen and oxygen are used during the
process and would not be available for the plants use if the soil is still
using it to decompose matter.
Hot piles require regular turning – which may be one reason your compost didn’t’ seem ready since you were sick. Also since you didn’t add your mowed trimmings you may have not had the regular balance you always have of nitrogen to carbon (greens to browns) which also effect the rate of decomposition. Composting requires the right balance of carbons to nitrogen (brown matter to green matter). 2:1 carbon to nitrogen for hot composting and 3:1 carbon to nitrogen for cold composting.
Screen your
mulch and pick out large things that haven’t decomposed that take a long time
like avocado pits and corn cobs – throw then back in to the compose – they will
eventually break down
Last year my basil was three feet tall. This year I can’t get it to grow at all. Good irrigated soil, same location. I do see some tiny holes in lower leaves. Any suggestions?
You may have a soil borne disease building up in your soil. Although herbs are not as susceptible to soil borne diseases like other vegetables, we recommend rotating herbs along with your other crops. Also like other crops, herbs will benefit from having some fresh compost put in the area where it’s to be planted. Pruning your basil also helps it to thrive.
Every springtime I wait like an excited child at the window to see the dandelions come into bloom. It’s one of the signs that nature tells me it’s time to plant the potatoes. We love homegrown potatoes as much as we love tomatoes. Just like with most fruits, vegetables, and herbs, there is a greater variety of homegrown choices to chose from than you will ever find at the supermarket or farmer’s market. We plan our garden with our stomachs in mind; meaning we know the types of things we like to cook and plant accordingly.One of our favorite things we like make from our harvests is potato soup. We make and then freeze portions of the soup so that we can easily take out and enjoy a delicious homegrown home-cooked meals anytime for lunch or dinner. We find this is really handy for those winter days where we are too tired to start something from scratch but are hungry.
Earlier this week on Instagram @homegrown_harvest did our weekly Monday live broadcast. We just started to broadcast live on Instagram and then rebroadcast the shows on Facebook and Pinterest. We are beginners at podcasting but we love sharing with people our knowledge about gardening and try to show them that gardening doesn’t have to be hard or intimidating. Growing your own food can be simple and fun.
Smart pot and some organic rich soil
When we grow potatoes we like to use grow bags. We started growing this way years ago since Mark likes to grow a surplus of tomatoes and didn’t want to give up any planting space and have less tomatoes. Tomatoes and potatoes are both in the same family, solanaceous crops are susceptible to the same diseases so it’s not recommended to plant them in the same raised beds, as you risk losing both crops.
If you are interested in growing potatoes, you first need to get some seed potatoes. It’s not recommended that you use the old potatoes from the grocery store. Varieties that are grown by farms for commercial use are chosen for their ability to travel from farm to table which averages 1500 miles. Flavor is not taken into consideration and aren’t we all tired of the same selection of potatoes the grocery store has to offer?
The other place I have ordered from is John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds. This spring I bought some of their Red Sonia potatoes another yellow fleshed potato that looks like a pre-buttered, melt in your mouth morsel of tasty goodness. I’m a sucker for delicious sounding descriptions of herbs, fruits and vegetables, that I tend to go crazy wanting to try this that and the other thing.
A variety of Nicola, Red Gold and Desiree potatoes
The varieties offered come in amazing colors, tastes and textures. We fell in love with German Butterball after I made one of the creamiest most delicious soups. I remember the potatoes looked as if they have been previously buttered but they had not been. The Maine Potato Lady, who is one of my potato seed go-to websites, describes it as being a versatile “round to oblong tuber …this beauty is superb for everything – frying, baking, mashing, soups.”
Finally I recommend once you do find a variety that you like, you begin to save your own seed potatoes. We saved many seed potatoes from last year’s harvests and are looking forward to some repeat performers like Nicola, Desiree and Red Gold.
Step by Step to growing potatoes in sacks
Fill sack with 2′ -3′ of organic rich soil mixed with aged compost or manure.
Place 4- 5 seed potatoes in the sack -place one in middle. To place the other seed potatoes think of the bottom like a clock and place one at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
Cover the seed potatoes with 2″- 4″ of soil.
water the sacks daily and keep and eye for growth of green leaves. As the leaves appear continue to cover with 2″- 4′ inches of soil until your grow bag is full.
Harvest your potatoes once all the flowers have bloomed and a majority of the plant is dead. Store, cook and enjoy!
As I mentioned earlier, we started to grow potatoes in the sacks: one because we didn’t want to give up planting space, and two, I had tried it once in one of the raised beds and found it difficult to hill and was worried about the ones that grew near the surface would green. Which is why you need to hill potatoes properly to prevent greening which is not only bad for your potatoes but can be toxic. I also found harvesting the potatoes to be difficult and a pain in the butt. The grow bags make harvesting the potatoes a snap since all you have to do is overturn the bags and finding the harvest becomes like an easter egg hunt. We reuse our soil filling in areas that have eroded; adding it to our compost to replenish the nutrients that the potatoes have used up. This will be the 6th year we have been growing our potatoes in grow bags, I have never felt the need to try to go back to growing potatoes any other way. We have always been happy with the yields and never had a problem with drainage since the bags are essentially designed to allow for drainage and air flow.
Harvesting our potatoes
The other reason we enjoy using the grow bags in our garden is the flexibility they offer us in the garden. Year after year, the bags can be reused and at the end of each harvest once you empty them – they can be folded up and stored away. Once the grow bags are filled to the top I add companion plants to the tops such as some basil, parsley or thyme which help to enhance the flavor of the tubers. Beans help to add nitrogen into the soil so I will add some bush beans in and finally flowers like petunias and marigolds. There are plenty of other companion plants that can be added to your potato sacks depending upon your tastes – lettuce and radishes are also great companions and quick growers so you can seed more than one crop during the growing season.
During our live broadcast, Mark and I talked about our favorite potato soup recipe that we like to make which is actually thanks to one of our favorite shows, The Pioneer Woman. Ree’s Perfect Potato soup is so easy to make and tastes delicious. Contrary to Mark’s memory, there is some milk and cream in the recipe but not a lot and when you grow potatoes that are perfect for making creamy soups, I find you can cut down on the added dairy.
Trying new things is a part of enjoying life. Fear of the unknown, or failure tends to hold too many people back from even trying new things. Whether it’s learning to grow food in fabric bags, grow a new variety of a vegetable you have never grown before or starting a gardening podcast – taking the first steps can be hardest part, but the fruits of our labors can be so incredibly satisfying.
Every Thursday live on Instagram @homegrown_harvest answers questions from followers about gardening and sustainable living. If you have any questions you would like answered, we would love to help out. Send your questions to info@homegrownharvest.com.
Can the newish full spectrum LED home light bulbs do double duty as grow lights?
The short answer is yes – the words full spectrum give you a clue that it includes the full light spectrum
However, plants only need 2/3 of the spectrum to grow so therefore you would be wasting 1/3 of the energy the light is putting out.
Horticultural LED bulbs are inexpensive and deliver the exact type of light plants and flowers need to thrive indoors.
I recently learned that daylilies are edible and already knew pansies and roses were too. Can you recommend some other edible ornamentals?First, as far as edible flowers goes, its important to stress that you need to know EXACTLY what you are eating and check with your doctor first and talk to a plant specialist. There are some plants which may be dangerous to you if you have certain conditions.
There are plenty of edible flowers which can be added to our gardens and plates. But it’s important to know about the plants we would like to consume and what they can do for or to us. It’s highly recommended that you always use flowers sparingly as digestive complications can occur with large consumption rate.
Cooking with flowers has been around since the early Romans and is a part of Chinese, Middle Eastern & Indian cultures. Not every flower or plant is edible and sometimes the flower may be edible but the foliage is not; or it may be edible only after cooking. Also never harvest flowers or plants that have pesticides or other chemicals on it if you plan to eat and NEVER harvest plants/flowers by the roadside.
Some flowers are edible but it doesn’t necessarily mean they should be eaten. For instance waxed begonias are edible but taste bitter and can taste swampy. Other begonias are edible as well but if you have gout, kidney stones or rheumatism – you should stay away from these.
Calendula has a start taste similar to saffron and is actually called Poor Man’s saffron. Sprinkle on soups, pasta, or rice dishes, herbed butters and salads
Carnations – petals are sweet – don’t eat the bitter white base of the flower; carnation petals are the secret ingredient in the French liqueur, Chartreuse since the 17th century
Chrysanthemums – flavors range from faint peppery to mild cauliflower; should be blanched; leaves are used to flavor vinegar – always remove the bitter flower base.
Dandelions – good raw or steamed, made into wine, sweet when picked young, buds tastier than the flowers.
Fuchsia blooms have a slimly acidic flavor, berries are also edible
Hibiscus – cranberry-like, dried to make tea.
Johnny-jumps ups have a mild wintergreen flavor, good in sales, add in drinks, soups, dessert and salads
Nasturtiums are a sweet, yet spicy flavor similar to watercress. Stuff the flowers and add the leaves in a salad to add a peppery tang.
Violets have a sweet perfumed flavor, related to pansies, violas and johnny-jump ups; use the tender leaves and flowers in salads, cold drinks and desserts; the heart shaped leaves when cooked taste like spinach.
If you are anything like my sister – you don’t like bugs.
When she was young, she would stare up at the ceiling trying to spot them for
her older siblings to kill. I believe it all stemmed from a traumatic moment
she got trapped on the landing of our stairs at our country house by what she
believed to be a giant green bug. It was in reality a leaf that had blown in
the front door which she happened to be standing next to at the time. She was only
three years old at the time – I, on the other hand, was ten and thought it
hilarious and tease her to this day about it. Theoretically, she gets the
concept that good bugs exist in this world which is fine as long as they stay
out her sight and not in her house.
For gardeners, bugs and insects are a reality we have to
deal with, but not all bugs are bad. Beneficial insects are some of the most
important contributors in a garden since they are the natural defense system
against “bad” bugs which can devastate our crops. Insects are an important part of our ecosystem;
we need them for decomposition & pollination. They also produce products
such as silk, wax and honey, even medicine. Most people are familiar with
beneficials such as bees, and butterflies but there are many other beneficials
which contribute to the balance of nature.
VIETNAM – CIRCA 1982: A Stamp printed in VIETNAM shows the image of a Assassin Bug with the description “Sycanus falleni Stal” from the series “Chinch Bugs”, circa 1982
Some beneficials have scary names which are intimidating
alone. For instance, the Assassin Bug, which there are actually many different
species of assassin bugs in North America. They generally have long spindly
legs, narrow heads and broad bodies. Assassins help control aphids, cabbage
worms, Colorado bean beetles, cutworms, earwigs, four-lined plant bugs,
Japanese beetles, lace bugs, Mexican bean beetles, tobacco budworms, and many caterpillars. The assassin bug pierce their prey using
their long beaks and then injects a lethal toxin that kills the insect instantly,
liquifying their insides which the assassin bug feeds on the liquified tissue,
leaving behind an empty shell. So, if you find empty shells of insects you will
know you have assassin bugs.
One of the insects that assassin bugs go after are earwigs,
which like to feed on a wide range of flowers, fruit and foliage. Favorite crops of the earwig include
artichokes, bean seedlings, corn silk, lettuce, potatoes, roses, peaches and
apricots, strawberries and zinnias. If you find that your leaves have a bunch
of ragged holes you may have earwigs, although caterpillars leave behind similar
damage. Earwigs like to feed on dead and
decaying plant matter as well. If you
need to deal with earwigs, keep your garden clean of dying and dead debris. You
can also trap them in shallow containers filled with vegetable oil. Or try to
put rolled newspaper into a cardboard tubes and place near your plants. Earwigs
like to crawl into tunnels, and you can easily dispose of them in the morning.
small brown earwig, hidden in a flower.
Earwigs will not attack humans, despite their formidable appearance with their easily recognizable pincers, and contrary to folklore they won’t crawl into our ears despite liking to crawl into dark, small places. Initially introduced to North America in the early 1900s, they came across in cargo and on ships and have been plaguing our gardens and farm ever since.
Insects are the most diverse group of organisms with more species of insects than any other group. In the United States there are an estimated 91,000 species which is why going forward, I will write more about big bugs, little bugs, good bugs, and bad bugs on occasion to educate myself and others about the organisms in our gardens.
Welcome to Homegrown Harvest Live Q&A Thursday! Every Thursday at 2pm, Mark and Xine answer questions related to gardening or sustainable living from followers during their live podcast aired on Instagram @homegrown_harvest
Daphne from Connecticut – Zone 6b asks “How do you take care of a Ranunculus Mache Pastel flowers? Am I supposed to prune this thing, how often do I water it, do I planted into the ground?
Tecolote Ranunculus – incredibly bold colors, make for great cut flowers with extended vase life. They need bright sun, rich soil and light watering – if planted needs to be in well drained area
In zones 8 and warmer they can be planted in the fall. In zone 7 and colder, plant bulbs in the springtime or plant in containers.
When choosing a container, you always need to be sure to
pick the right size container for the plant you are growing. For ranunculus
bulbs leave 3- 4 inches between the bulbs, and plant 2” deep in the container.
Once there is no threat of a frost put the container outside in a sunny spot.
Ranunculus are perennials in warm climates zone 8 and
higher; whereas zone 7 and lower the plant acts as an annual, so you have to
start over the following spring with new bulbs
As a cut flower they can last up to 10 days!
Kristin from Connecticut – zone 6 writes in that she mulches her garden beds and the property slopes downward. What is the best mulch that will stay put in heavy rains?
All mulches will float and wash away in a flood but some
stay put better than others. Pine straw is highly recommended since the needles
entwine and it help it stay put better than wood chips or bark nuggets which
float off onto the lawn. Shredded bark or wood is good, something with pieces
that tangle and hold onto one another.
Ideally if you can edge your garden with something high
enough to hold the mulch in place – stones, wood that helps. You can also use
other plants plie monkey grass of hostas or a type of ground cover as a
protective border to keep the mulch in. Trenching a 3- 4” deep moat around the
bed will help geep the mulch from floating off.
The Idaho Dept of Environmental Quality recommends that
mulches that as meant to last longer than 3 months on slopes steeper than 50% –
you use straw or hay held in place by netting. And they don’t recommend using
wood chips if the slope is steeper than 6%, because they wash away.
Kristin, I would use pine straw and depending on your slope
possibly throw some netting down and tack it down with landscape fabric stakes.
Carolyn from Connecticut asks what is the best time to prune ones rose bushes?
The trick about pruning is timing since if you do it too
soon, you run the risk of having new growth stimulated during a warm spell
which could be killed later by a freeze.
Prune too late and your plant misses the spring bloom. So how do you know?
One trick is if you live in an area where there are
forsythias -wait until the forsythias are in bloom. Forsythias only bloom when
the soil temperature is 55° of warmer in the first 6 inches of soil depth –
this is a natural indicator that it’s the perfect time to prune your
roses. If you don’t live in an area
where there are forsythias – early spring after the last frost in colder
climates, when they start to bud or leaf out. If you have a soil thermometer
again you are looking for 55°.
I’m so excited for spring, it’s ridiculous. This morning for the first time in months, I see patches of grass finally poking through the snow cover on our front lawn. Our garden started the week buried under 3 feet of snow or more and inches of ice had to be chipped away to free one of the two ways into the garden. But once I was in, I made quick work to free to the other entrance and let the dogs come into the garden for the first time in four months. I then turned my attention to the raised beds and carefully removed the snow from the top of the cold frames, then shoveled as much snow off the raised beds as best I could, only to be thwarted by 2 inches of ice under all the snow.
The temps slowly rose throughout the week, allowing us to see 40°s more often than 20°s and teens now. The last snow fall delivered 8 inches only 8 days ago and a quick look at my notes from last spring show it snowed as late as mid-April 34 inches with an ice crust. Spring in New England, particularly central New Hampshire at 1460ft can take on its on ecosystem which after 3 winter and 2 growing seasons I am just starting to learn. It may snow up here in the next month, but after 130 inches (the amount we have received since October 2018, we can handle a few more stragglers.
our garden as of March 30, 2019
Plants can be
greatly affected by the weather, particularly spring’s harsh late frosts and wide
temperature swings from the lingering cold nights to a late day warm up. It’s not unusual to start a morning in the low
40°s and end up in the low 70°s which is why it helps to know which plants
thrive in this weather. There are plenty
of vegetables which can be planted in the early part of spring – even as early
as mid-March depending upon what zone you live in. When I lived in zone 6b in Connecticut,
I was able to usually start my cold crops around St. Patrick’s Day; however up
here in zone 5a-b (our property seems to be in both zones and I’m not exactly
sure where the garden is) I am discovering that the garden is on a new
timetable.
Peas, carrots and lettuce are always my first seeds that I directly sow into the garden. They are simple and easy to grow – at least the peas and lettuce. Carrots can be tricky for some depending on the soil and whether your using a raised bed or in-ground. I have had fantastic success ever since I coupled them with marigolds. Marigolds are a fantastic companion plant, working on a soil level emitting an enzyme which deters root eating nematodes, as well as above the surface in attracting pollinators to the garden. Marigolds can be planted in late spring so if you are looking to add some flowers for instant color in your garden – look to pansies. Don’t be fouled by the name – pansies can take a frost. Snapdragons are also a great early bloom which doesn’t mind the cold mornings.
Here’s a list of cold-hardy crops which are great starters for your spring garden and the temperatures needed for their seed germination. The cold-hardy plants work best in the spring and the fall. Happy spring gardening!
Every Thursday live on Instagram @homegrown_harvest answers questions from followers about gardening and sustainable living. If you have any questions you would like answered, we would love to help out. Send your questions to info@homegrownharvest.com.
Samantha in Maine asks: What’s the best way to incorporate my compost into my garden? Shouldn’t I “till” my soil with gas tiller or something?
Hand mixing is the best way to incorporate compost and any other amendments that you introduce into the soil. It doesn’t destroy the microorganisms that live in the soil web which is the first few layers of the soil. Healthy soil is biologically alive and balanced in minerals and carbon content. The inter-connected activities of soil organisms improve soil stability and underpin nutrient cycling on a global scale.
It’s a fact that healthy soils are responsible for the production of food borne antibiotics, vitamins, phyto-chemicals and amino acids – all of which are crucial the health of humans. The right soil will yield the most nutritious and flavorful food possible.
The second part asked about roto-tilling and hoeing on soil – old school of thought – This can be very disruptive to soil organisms. We always recommend raised beds which help avoids soil compaction which also effects soils organisms and the soil can be worked more easily without disrupting soil organisms too much. Repeat This is why we recommend hand mixing.
Melissa from Virginia asks: I want to grow fruit trees. Do they need to be planted in pairs to pollinate?
Without pollination there would be no fruit, so it’s important to know. Fruit tree pollination = sexual reproduction and fruit development. Fruit trees fall into 2 categories: self-pollinating and pollinator required.
Self-pollinators are trees that don’t need another to complete the pollination process. Most apricots, nectarines, peaches and sour cherries are self-pollinators.
Fruit trees that require pollinators are trees that need to be planted by another variety of tree. These include. apples, pears, plums and sweet cherries. So it all depends on what you want to grow.
Diane in Connecticut asks if you could have 1 vegetable plant which would give you the most beauty for viewing or the most value for eating?
Mark’s favorite thing to grow are tomatoes. He absolutely loves them, low fat, no cholesterol, versatile in the kitchen and delicious – beautiful to grow they come in a variety of colors from red, orange, yellow, even purple! For me, for its beauty while it’s growing – I’d have to say lettuce since it comes in so many beautiful varieties and colors, shapes and textures – you can make an entire mosaic out of it in the garden – not to mention it’s simple to grow, even indoors. Plus with all the recalls on lettuce – I prefer to grow our own. But if we were talking just value for eating – that I like – because stuff like kale would probably be no.1 as far nutritional value but I hate kale so I’ll say peas. They are high in fiber, protein, vitamins A, C and K, riboflavin and thiamin, niacin and foliate – also have some compound known as saponins known for their anti-cancer effects. Plus they are super easy to grow – are pretty and tasty, tasty. Homegrown peas are the best tasting peas you will ever taste. Everything homegrown tastes better.
In less than two weeks we will all be celebrating the first
day of spring! Gardeners all over are waiting with anticipation for the first
two inches of soil to be warm enough and friable to allow cold crops to be
directly seeded outside. Some, like
myself will have to wait until the winter snows stop and then the three to four
feet of snow blanket to melt away by the warming sun. While others who have the
space and patience have begun to start seeds indoors to get an early jump on
the growing season. But what if you are new to gardening and you read things
like this and get overwhelmed at the thought and begin to think that the effort
required is actually greater than what needs to be put in?
Before, Mark and I started up Homegrown Harvest we talked to a lot of people about gardening and quickly discovered that although many people wanted to have a garden but didn’t. When asked why they didn’t they said they honestly didn’t know where or how to start and the idea of even beginning would get so overwhelming that they just never moved forward to make it happen.
It was hearing this repeatedly from people that made us want
to provide people with simple solutions to gardening. Building a garden doesn’t
have to be the time consuming or daunting task that some people imagine it to
be. That’s why all our products we offer we have installed repeatedly ourselves
and can attest to their ease of use. If
it isn’t easy to use and durable, then we don’t offer it.
Understanding the sunlight and the types of sunlight your
space has is very important when initially setting up a garden. Reviewing some
of the terminology – there’s full sun (6+ hours), partial sun/shade (3-6 hours),
and full shade (less than 3 hours). These are the terms of sunlight
recommendations on seed packets or plant start tags. But the sunlight in your
garden may not be so clear cut. You might have some trees that during part of
the day create a dappled sun (inconsistent light) or plan to put your garden near
a reflective light source such as some vinyl privacy walls which bounce light
off, providing an indirect source of sunlight to your garden.
Beside the material you select for your raised garden bed,
one of the biggest considerations is location. Where is the best place to put
the garden? If you want to grow food successfully, then you have to put your
garden in a spot where it will receive 8 – 10 hours of sunlight, 6 hours
minimum of solid unobstructed sunshine, otherwise your tomato plants will be thin
and spindly. Sunlight is important to your fruits and vegetables, helping to
provide the energy needed for growth. Flashback to middle school science class
when we all learned about the process of photosynthesis. The diagram should shed
some light on the situation – ha, ha, ha! I couldn’t help myself.
If you are trying to figure out where to put your garden,
take the time to go out and spend some time in the space where you imagine it
to be. On a nice day, put on your sunscreen
and hat, have with you a pad, pen and a lawn chair and sit exactly where you plan
to put the garden. Draw a rough sketch – it can be circles and squares it doesn’t
have to be a Monet. Sit out sometime between 10-2pm during the heat of the day.
If you are doing this in the springtime, make note around of the trees whose
leaves will come in and cast shade during parts of the day as the sun rises
higher in the sky as spring melts into summer.
When I used to install gardens and would visit our clients’ yards
of course I couldn’t just set up camp and study the light, so I would draw a
quick sketch, snap a lot of photos and then would do something I learned while
becoming an Accredited Organic Land Care Professional. Wherever the prospective
garden was going I would stand and look directly up, my left hand would extend
towards the edge of any obstruction visible (tree, shrub, building) and repeat
the same with my right hand. Ideally
what you are striving for is an angle of 45º or greater or unobstructed blue
sky about you. Or you can always buy a sun meter kit if you want to be sure.
Once you have your spot, the best position for your raised bed is to run north to south, lessening the chance of crops shading one another. The right light for your garden can and will make all the difference between having a garden which produces healthy, strong plants which produce bountiful harvests throughout the growing season and a garden whose plants are spindly and don’t produce as much if at all. Enjoy gardening.
